The creation of the E-11 blaster rifle
Page 09
Page 09
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Now that the cocking handle was put into the wooden plug, it didn't wobble around at all anymore when the blaster rifle was cocked backwards.
Now that the ejection port cover had a wooden plug inside of it, I had to grind room for the handle mounting bolt again where I had made a track for it earlier.
Now the head of the grip mounting bolt could fit inside the ejection port cover track again.
Because of the functioning ejection port cover, I wanted to make something that would look like a barrel of a laser blaster inside the ejection port so that there wouldn't just be an empty space inside of it when I pull the ejection port cover backwards.
It doesn't look like much, but it was the only thing I had room for in there because of the wooden plug inside the ejection port cover.
It doesn't look like much, but it was the only thing I had room for in there because of the wooden plug inside the ejection port cover.
To attach the bayonet mount onto the gun body, I drilled two holes underneath where it should be mounted to screw the bayonet mount on later with two small screws.
Double click to edit
Before making the T-tracks, some smaller parts remained to be mounted onto the gun body, such as the bayonet mount.
To get the surface of the bayonet mount smooth and clean, I used a file and some sandpaper.
To get the surface of the bayonet mount smooth and clean, I used a file and some sandpaper.
This is what the bayonet mount looked like after having been filed and sanded, and the change is breathtaking.
Having an E-11 blaster rifle with a bayonet would be really cool but most likely very illegal.
Having an E-11 blaster rifle with a bayonet would be really cool but most likely very illegal.
The holes for the two screws that will hold the bayonet mount in place were made with the same small drill bit.
The bayonet mount was attached to the gun body with two small screws.
Fortunately there was a large hole on the opposite side of where it should be mounted that I could put a screwdriver through, or else I would have needed a very small screwdriver and very long fingers.
Fortunately there was a large hole on the opposite side of where it should be mounted that I could put a screwdriver through, or else I would have needed a very small screwdriver and very long fingers.
In front of the bayonet mount, there should be a flat area on the surface of the gun body.
To make this, I used a large flat file to grind the gun body flat.
To make this, I used a large flat file to grind the gun body flat.
The last part needed on the gun body before the T-tracks were attached to it was the front sight insert.
This was made by making some sort of mold out of cardboard strips and filling it with bondo.
This was made by making some sort of mold out of cardboard strips and filling it with bondo.
Using a small screwdriver, I started carving the three holes around the front sight insert.
One on each side and one on top of it if you were wondering.
One on each side and one on top of it if you were wondering.
A 4 millimeter thick thread making tool was used to obviously make threads for the part that I call the front sight insert insert.
In this photo, nothing much really happened, but I glued the front sight insert onto the gun body.
This strange bolt became the part that I call the front sight insert insert.
After the top of the bolt was cut and filed to the right shape, the bolt was screwed into the front sight insert.
Also I rounded off the edges of the front sight a bit to make it look more like the original.
Also I rounded off the edges of the front sight a bit to make it look more like the original.
This old piece of cracked electrical wire duct eventually became the T-tracks.
After having taped the ducts where I should cut them to get the T shapes out, I started cutting them with a cutting wheel on a Dremel tool.
After having cut the sides of the T shape, I taped the top if it where I should cut it next.
Now at least one T-track had been born and was ready for trimming.
I bent the front of the T-track and grinded it to fit inside one of the holes of the gun body.
After I got the front of the T-track to fit inside one of the holes of the gun body, I marked the other end of it where the T-track should be bent down again into another hole.
After sticking the T-track in a vise, I heated it with a hot-air gun and bent it downwards.
As I only got two T-shaped tracks from the wire duct, I had to make the rest of them by first making the bottom half and adding the top half later on.
Here you can see I'm attaching the top half of a T-track onto the bottom half by heating the edges of the top half with a hot-air gun and bending them downwards.
Here you can see I'm attaching the top half of a T-track onto the bottom half by heating the edges of the top half with a hot-air gun and bending them downwards.
Because I couldn't insert the gun barrel after having glued on the T-tracks, I had to prime the gun body before attaching the barrel inside of it so that the black barrel wouldn't be covered in primer as it would have been if I had primed the whole thing while having the barrel inside of it.
Though it was all spray painted black afterwards, some spots on the barrel might have been missed, still showing the primer on it.
Though it was all spray painted black afterwards, some spots on the barrel might have been missed, still showing the primer on it.
All the T-tracks were sprayed with primer as well.
Now that the gun body and the T-tracks had been primed, I could put the barrel back inside the gun body and glue the T-tracks onto the gun body after sanding off some of the primer underneath where they will be glued on so that they won't fall off later on.
The ejection port cover was put inside the gun body with masking tape over it to cover the parts that I made on the inside of the ejection port.
The ejection port cover was put inside the gun body with masking tape over it to cover the parts that I made on the inside of the ejection port.
The whole gun body and all the parts attached to it were spray painted flat black.
At least the paint I used was supposed to be flat black, but it appears to be more like semi-gloss, but it was dulled down and weathered later on anyway.
At least the paint I used was supposed to be flat black, but it appears to be more like semi-gloss, but it was dulled down and weathered later on anyway.
Before I could spray paint the scope, I had to cover the lenses with masking tape.
By bending a metal wire, I could bolt the scope onto it and hang it from a pole so it would be easier to paint it.
A few layers of primer were applied to the scope.
The scope was spray painted with gloss black paint as it is meant to be shinier than the rest of the blaster rifle.
The bolts were covered in masking tape because I wanted to spray paint these semi-gloss black like most other parts of this blaster.
The bolts were covered in masking tape because I wanted to spray paint these semi-gloss black like most other parts of this blaster.
Here is a composite photo of the glossy and finished scope.
Weathering was applied to the scope later on.
Weathering was applied to the scope later on.
Before I could paint the folding stock parts, I had to do some modifications to them first such as grinding the right shape for the rivet holes on the folding stock butt.
To make the strange blob at the front of the folding stock tube, I had to glue the two spacers onto the sides of it.
A blob of bondo was applied to the front of the folding stock tube.
The blob was sanded and filed to the right shape, and the stopping edge at the top of it stops the folding stock butt at the right position as well.
Now that all the modifications of the folding stock parts were done, I could start priming them all.
A few coats of flat black spray paint were applied to the folding stock parts also.
Here is a view of the somewhat spray painted folding stock tube that was hung from a wire to make it easier to spray paint.
After sticking the rivets for the folding stock parts into a piece of foam, I could then spray them with primer and flat black spray paint.
All the spray painted folding stock parts were put together and weathered.
I started priming the clip parts after having masked off the parts on the back of the clip with masking tape.
The clip parts were all spray painted flat black.
The grip was also primed.
Yes, really.
Yes, really.
Since the rubber part of the grip should appear glossier than the rest of the gun, I sprayed the whole grip with the supposedly flat black spray paint anyway as this was glossy enough, and the other surfaces that shouldn't be glossy were dulled down later on anyway.
The targeting sensors were sprayed with primer also.
The flat black spray paint was also applied to the targeting sensors.
The ejection port cover myseriously changed color when it was sprayed with primer.
Exciting stuff.
Exciting stuff.
Instead of having smooth silver tape on the ejection port cover like most other E-11's had, I chose to spray paint mine with a gun-metal grey spray paint.
