The creation of the E-11 blaster rifle
Page 06
Page 06
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Bondo was applied around the edges of the vent covers to make them flow more with the gun body.
All the edges of the vent covers were sanded smooth, and the inside edges next to the gun body were shaped with a small round file.
Trying to get as many of the gun body's permanently attached parts finished, I started making the mount for the folding stock.
This was made from the same fiber tube as used to make the targeting sensors of, and it was cut to the length of 38 millimeters as the width of the gun body is the same.
This was made from the same fiber tube as used to make the targeting sensors of, and it was cut to the length of 38 millimeters as the width of the gun body is the same.
To get the folding stock mount to fit on the gun body, I had to grind a curve into the back of it with a big sanding Dremel bit.
Earlier I had drilled two holes on each side of the gun body for the folding stock mount, but found out that their position wouldn't allow my folding stock to align right, so I wanted to mount the tube a bit higher up on the gun body.
Because of this, I had to cut away a piece of metal between the two holes I made earlier, so that I wouldn't have to try aligning some new holes with the holes of the folding stock mount.
Because of this, I had to cut away a piece of metal between the two holes I made earlier, so that I wouldn't have to try aligning some new holes with the holes of the folding stock mount.
Here you can see the insides of the gun body and the folding stock mount, and it was now easier to get the folding stock to fit with the gun body.
The folding stock mount was glued onto the gun body with a bolt going through it to prevent bondo from clogging up the holes when applied later on.
After the bondo was applied around the folding stock mount, I removed the bolt from it.
I was holding a piece of sandpaper for no particular reason.
I was holding a piece of sandpaper for no particular reason.
After deciding to rub that piece of sandpaper around on the folding stock mount, this is what it looked like from both sides after having done that.
Finally I got to mount the really nice grip that was kindly donated by Tango'd Fett because he liked my work with this blaster rifle and the tutorial.
The top of the grip was trimmed to a curve with a sanding bit on a Dremel tool.
To fill in the top of the grip, I taped around the same tube that I used for the gun body with some thin slippery tape and stuck the grip onto it with bondo.
Now the top of the grip got the exact same curve as the gun body it is to be mounted onto.
The grip was trimmed and sanded smooth.
I also used a small square file to deepen the grid lines on both sides of the grip.
I also used a small square file to deepen the grid lines on both sides of the grip.
A mark was made with the tip of a file on top of the grip through the mounting holes to see where the mounting hole was to be made on the grip.
Using a drill bit on the Dremel tool, I drilled a hole into the grip where I made the mark earlier, and started grinding around in the hole with the drill bit to make the hole 5 millimeters wide.
Now I could make the threads for the 6 millimeter thick bolt by using a thread making tool.
Having no other shorter bolts with a flat screwdriver head on top of them, I had to cut the bolt I had in half.
The nut you see on the bolt was put on there so that when I remove the nut, it will straighten out any bent or deformed threads on the bolt.
The nut you see on the bolt was put on there so that when I remove the nut, it will straighten out any bent or deformed threads on the bolt.
Here you can see all the holes aligning with the threaded hole of the grip.
The grip is mounted onto the gun body with only one bolt and sits on there very well without moving a single millimeter.
The next thing to do was to trim and sand the trigger and selector switch that came with the grip I was kindly donated.
The trigger was super-glued into place.
To mount the selector switch, I made a hole into it and where it should be attached so that I could put a pin inside the holes, preventing the selector switch from ever getting knocked off sideways.
The selector switch was super-glued into place, pointing towards the letter A.
Taking a science-fiction guess, the letter S was the setting of the famous line from Star Wars Episode IV - A New Hope "There's one, set for stun".
Taking a science-fiction guess, the letter S was the setting of the famous line from Star Wars Episode IV - A New Hope "There's one, set for stun".
The final thing to do with this grip was to add the trigger guard that I made earlier.
After having seen some photos of the original trigger guards of the Sterling sub-machine guns, I made some minor modifications such as bending the bottom part of it back and cutting most of it off, having what's left of it stuck inside a groove that I made on the grip.
The front part of the trigger guard was cut a bit narrower and screwed into place.
And there you have it, one finished grip.
Now that the folding stock mount and most other parts around have been attached to the gun body, I could finish the last details of the folding stock and get it working with the rest of the blaster rifle.
The folding stock arms were glued together with the folding stock body to prevent them from wobbling around.
The folding stock arms were glued together with the folding stock body to prevent them from wobbling around.
The small drop shaped parts were also super-glued onto the ends of the folding stock arms.
After having stuck the folding stock in a vise, I could bend and adjust it to the right shape.
The folding stock was adjusted to fit properly with the rest of the blaster rifle.
To attach the folding stock onto the mount, I used a grinding bit on a Dremel tool to make the holes big enough for the rivets that will go through them and into the folding stock mount.
After some minor grinding, the rivets fit inside the holes of the folding stock and the folding stock mount, but won't be pressed fully in before the parts are painted.
Some bondo was applied around the drop shaped parts on the back of the folding stock arms and in between the folding stock body and the arms to make them all look like one piece.
After the bondo was sanded smooth, I used a grinding bit on a Dremel tool to grind away the heads of the small screws that were used to keep the folding stock arms steady onto the folding stock body.
The screws that held the folding stock tube in place before have been replaced by some much cooler rivets.
The screws that held the folding stock butt onto the folding stock tube were also replaced by two small rivets.
To make the folding stock lock into place underneath the gun body, a rivet will be added on top of the folding stock tube.
Here I have made a mark on top of the folding stock tube where the hole was to be drilled for the rivet.
Here I have made a mark on top of the folding stock tube where the hole was to be drilled for the rivet.
After the hole was drilled, a large rived was super-glued into the hole.
The part that held the folding stock in place underneath the gun body of the Sterling sub-machine gun looked a lot different from a regular rivet, but I don't mind anyway as this will work just fine.
The part that held the folding stock in place underneath the gun body of the Sterling sub-machine gun looked a lot different from a regular rivet, but I don't mind anyway as this will work just fine.
As you can see, there was a gap between the folding stock tube and the gun body because of the height needed for the rivet to get inside the hole of the gun body, so I had to fix this with a small plastic riser.
A small riser for the folding stock tube was made out of a small piece of thick plastic.
Using a grinding wheel, I made the top of the part curved towards one side.
Using a cutting disc on the Dremel tool, I made a slot into the riser where the shaft of the rivet will slide into.
Now the riser is finished, and when the rivet is put into the hole of the gun body, the rivet will automatically rise higher when the folding stock is being closed.
Now I could start building the part you've all been waiting for, the endcap of the gun.
This will be made from an old part from a pair of binoculars.
This will be made from an old part from a pair of binoculars.
After having figured out where inside the part it had the same width as the gun body, I cut the part in half.
After having measured how long the first slope of the endcap should be, I cut the rest of the unneeded plastic off.
To get the endcap to fit properly on the back of the gun body without wobbling around, I applied some slippery tape around the end of the same tube that I made the gun body out of and put the endcap onto the tube, filling it with bondo.
After the bondo had hardened, I could pull the endcap off from the tube.
Now the inside of the endcap has the same width as the outside of the gun body and fits perfectly.
Now the inside of the endcap has the same width as the outside of the gun body and fits perfectly.
