The creation of the E-11 blaster rifle
Page 04
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Finally I could mount the front and back sights onto the gun body.
To do this, I used super-glue and bondo.
To do this, I used super-glue and bondo.
And this is what it all looked like after gooing on the sights with super-glue and bondo.
When I was digging around after parts in the tool shed, I found a tube with a part attached to the end of it that looked as if it would fit right inside the gun body and would be great to use as the gun barrel.
But it didn't fit right inside of the tube anyway, but since grinding bits have been invented for the Dremel tool, this wasn't much of a problem.
Here you can see the barrel inside the gun body through the holes.
Such a really nice convenience that the barrel was already painted black.
Such a really nice convenience that the barrel was already painted black.
The barrel was cut to almost the right length, meaning I cut it a bit longer than what it should be, just incase.
It's always better to cut away too little than to cut away too much.
It's always better to cut away too little than to cut away too much.
For the front of the barrel, I made a disc that would go inside the gun body and hold the barrel centered.
I made the disc by tracing around a large metal plug that was actually inside the tube that I used for the gun body, so I knew it would have exactly the right size.
I made the disc by tracing around a large metal plug that was actually inside the tube that I used for the gun body, so I knew it would have exactly the right size.
After I cut the disc out, I drilled a hole through the center of it where the barrel will go through.
When the hole got big enough, I used the cone shaped grinding bit to grind the hole to the right size.
After the disc was finished, I traced around it on top of a sheet of thick plastic and cut another disc out of that.
The thicker plastic disc was used as a support disc behind the first aluminum disc.
The thicker plastic disc was used as a support disc behind the first aluminum disc.
After a hole was made through the center of the plastic disc, I started trimming the plastic disc to the right shape.
Both discs were fitted onto the front of the barrel.
After having trimmed the plastic disc some more, it all fit right into place.
Guess what movie I'm watching.
Guess what movie I'm watching.
The next thing to do with the barrel was to make the nozzle.
To make the nozzle, I used the templates for the nozzle parts that can be seen in this photo.
To make the nozzle, I used the templates for the nozzle parts that can be seen in this photo.
The first part I started making was the front part of the nozzle.
This part was made from the same thick plastic that I made the second barrel supporting disc from.
This part was made from the same thick plastic that I made the second barrel supporting disc from.
Two holes were drilled through the part.
The second hole farthest out to the edge will become one of the bolt slots.
The second hole farthest out to the edge will become one of the bolt slots.
A grinding bit was used to grind open the bolt slot on the side of the nozzle part.
The grinding bit was also used to grind the center hole bigger.
After sanding the edges of the holes and grinding away the rest of the excess plastic from outside the template, the nozzle part looked like this.
The second part I made was the middle part of the nozzle that I made out of a white sheet of plastic.
To get the plastic sheet thick enough for the middle nozzle part, I had to cut out two pieces and glue them together so that the part would have the right thickness.
After gluing the pieces together using bondo in between them, I glued the template onto the plastic.
With a grinding wheel, I removed the excess plastic all around the template of the part.
The bolt slots were made on the sides of the part using a grinding bit.
The middle nozzle part was sanded smooth, and only one last part of the nozzle remained to be made.
To make the back part of the nozzle, I used the same white plastic sheet as I had used to make the middle part of the nozzle from earlier.
After having cut the plastic to a circle and glued the template on top of it, I started drilling the holes for the bolts and the barrel.
When the hole for the barrel got big enough, I could finish it by using the "expandomatic" grinding bit again.
The back nozzle part fit right into place but still had a lot of excess plastic on it.
To remove the excess plastic from the back nozzle part, I used a sharp blade to make a mark onto it from outside the gun body to see where it should be trimmed down to.
After all the excess plastic was removed from the back nozzle part, I made two marks inside the bolt holes of it onto the metal barrel supporting disc behind it to see where the holes for the bolts should be drilled through it.
the holes for the bolts were drilled out where the marks were made earlier.
When the holes were big enough, I could make threads through them with a thread making tool, and I'm not sure that's the right name for it, but it works for now.
Here you can see that the tool worked.
Unfortunately these bolts are only temporary since they belong to my grinding machine, but I got some other bolts for the blaster later on.
Unfortunately these bolts are only temporary since they belong to my grinding machine, but I got some other bolts for the blaster later on.
Now that the threads worked, I could bolt the back nozzle part onto the gun body and make the round edge around it by sanding it to the right shape.
A round edge was made all around the back nozzle part, but it's hard to see it in this photo because of the plastic being white, but you will see it clearer in other photos to come.
To be able to mount the middle part of the nozzle on top of the bottom part, I had to grind away the excess length of the barrel by tracing around it over the top of the bottom part of the nozzle.
After the excess length of the barrel was cut away, I could glue the hole-less middle part of the nozzle onto the bottom part of the nozzle.
Since the middle part of the nozzle was hole-less, I had to make a hole through it.
I started with a smaller drill bit to make a pilot hole.
I started with a smaller drill bit to make a pilot hole.
Some larger drill bits were used to make the hole bigger and bigger until it had the right size.
Finally all the parts could be glued together, and I could now adjust the nozzle to make all the holes of the three parts align.
This is what the nozzle looked like from both sides after having been adjusted and sanded smooth.
This is what the nozzle looked like from both sides after having been adjusted and sanded smooth.
Some bondo was applied around the edges of the parts to blend them more together, making them all into one seamless part.
Now the nozzle was finally finished, apart from painted.
I believe there were three different looks for this nozzle, possibly they belonged to three different versions of the same gun, but I don't know which version I made, at least I can say that I made the version looking like the one I made.
I believe there were three different looks for this nozzle, possibly they belonged to three different versions of the same gun, but I don't know which version I made, at least I can say that I made the version looking like the one I made.
To mount the scope onto the blaster rifle, a scope rail was needed, and it was made out of a 1 centimeter wide brass strip.
To bend the brass strip, I stuck it in a vise and hammered it down to a 90 degree angle.
On the front of the scope rail, I made a slot on each side of the downwards bent part of it that would lock into one of the holes of the gun body.
At the back of the scope rail, I just bent it downwards behind the screw holes of the rear sight and had it running backwards over the rest of it.
I decided not to make a rear sight insert as it would be covered by the scope rail anyway, and my configuration of the scope rail made it impossible to have a rear sight insert there, so it would be just as pointless as wiping your butt before taking a dump.
I decided not to make a rear sight insert as it would be covered by the scope rail anyway, and my configuration of the scope rail made it impossible to have a rear sight insert there, so it would be just as pointless as wiping your butt before taking a dump.
The end of the scope rail was rounded off and temporarily glued onto the rear sight with a minimum amount of super-glue to hold it in place for when I was to drill a hole through it.
Some 2.5 millimeter wide holes were drilled through the end of the scope rail and the rear sight.
The rear sight will have two holes through it, one for the scope rail screw and one on the other side for another screw just to make the rear sight sit on stronger.
The 2.5 millimeter wide holes will be threaded with a 3 millimeter wide threading tool.
The rear sight will have two holes through it, one for the scope rail screw and one on the other side for another screw just to make the rear sight sit on stronger.
The 2.5 millimeter wide holes will be threaded with a 3 millimeter wide threading tool.
The 3 millimeter wide thread holes for the screws were made with the threading tool.
