The creation of the E-11 blaster rifle
Page 02
Page 02
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After some trimming had been done around the templates, the folding stock arms were hammered flat again after having been warped when cut out with the tin-cutter.
Some more filing and trimming were done to the edges of the folding stock arms.
Pilot holes were made for where the excess metal will be removed and larger holes will be made.
Pilot holes were made for where the excess metal will be removed and larger holes will be made.
After all the holes were made as they should be, the edges and surfaces were sanded smooth.
The folding stock arms were bent to the right shape using the shape guide that came with the templates.
For the rod that goes inside of the folding stock body, I used some of the shaft from an old car window cleaner.
After having cut off a long enough piece, I put the handle back onto the shaft again, and the window cleaner was as good as new, only a bit shorter.
After having cut off a long enough piece, I put the handle back onto the shaft again, and the window cleaner was as good as new, only a bit shorter.
After having drilled the required holes through the tube, I used a large grinding bit to smooth out the edges of the tube and to get them as straight as possible.
After the tube had been screwed in place between the folding stock arms and the body, I drilled some very small holes through the arms and the body so that I could screw them together to prevent the arms from wobbling around as these are meant to be in one piece with the folding stock body.
After getting the screws through the holes, I used a grinding bit on a Dremel tool to grind away the screws sticking out on the inside of the folding stock body.
To attach the folding stock butt, I used two spacers and two screws to temporarily hold it in place so that I could adjust the folding stock parts to work properly with each other.
Using a grinding Dremel bit, I made grooves on each side of the folding stock body where the imprints of the folding stock butt will lock into place when the folding stock is closed in the forward position.
To close the open ends of the tube, I made two plastic circles that I hammered into place and sanded to the right shape on both sides of the tube.
I had now finally made a functioning folding stock, only by adding two extensions at the front of the folding stock body and a tube.
At the top of this photo you can see the folding stock in the closed forward position and the open backwards position at the bottom.
At the top of this photo you can see the folding stock in the closed forward position and the open backwards position at the bottom.
The next parts I made were the very insignificant drop shaped parts that doesn't do much else than to look like drop shaped parts on the back of the folding stock arms.
I used the chomping tool to get rid off the excess metal around the templates.
I used the chomping tool to get rid off the excess metal around the templates.
Both pieces were chomped to the right shape with the tool.
To get the excess metal away from where the part is supposed to have a large hole through it, smaller holes were drilled where ever this could be done.
Holding the part in place with a vise, I used the grinding machine to remove some more of the excess metal.
After some grinding, I used a round file to smooth out the hole.
After finishing the part, another one suddenly came out of nowhere, all finished.
I decided to stop working on the folding stock until I got the gun body finished so that I could better adjust it fit onto the rest of the blaster.
I decided to stop working on the folding stock until I got the gun body finished so that I could better adjust it fit onto the rest of the blaster.
The next part I wanted to build was the scope.
After some while, I decided to go with the M-38 scope instead of the smaller M-19 scope which is said to be the standard scope of the E-11 blasters, but see who doesn't give a damn.
It was made from nothing but the junk you see in this photo.
After some while, I decided to go with the M-38 scope instead of the smaller M-19 scope which is said to be the standard scope of the E-11 blasters, but see who doesn't give a damn.
It was made from nothing but the junk you see in this photo.
Having found a cone shaped old candle holder to use as the angle structure for the scope, I put the lower part of the scope body tubes onto the cone to draw a mark around it where the cone was to be cut.
The cone was cut in half a small distance below the mark I made earlier with a hack-saw.
To make the upper tube part of the scope body, I taped around a plastic tube to make two steady lines for where the tube will be cut.
After the upper tube part of the scope body was cut to the right length, I did the same thing to the cone as I did earlier, marking it and cutting it and all that crap.
Magic goop called bondo was applied to the scope.
Unfortunately all I had left was some old fiberglass bondo which is not as good for this sort of usage, but it worked anyway.
Also I know I'm using too much hardener because I'm damn impatient.
Even though it's called hardener, don't get any funny ideas, its bad for the skin.
Unfortunately all I had left was some old fiberglass bondo which is not as good for this sort of usage, but it worked anyway.
Also I know I'm using too much hardener because I'm damn impatient.
Even though it's called hardener, don't get any funny ideas, its bad for the skin.
After the goop hardened, some sanding was done.
After sanding was done, some cracks obviously needed filling.
After sanding was done, some cracks obviously needed filling.
After the filling and sanding was done, a guide line was drawn on top of the scope body to make it easier to align all the parts when being put together later on.
On the side of the scope, there should be a machined slot that was easily made using a large grinding bit.
For the part in front of the scope body, I used a black plastic part of unknown usage that had an off-centered tube sticking out of it.
The tube had a bend at the end of it that had to be removed, so I used a hack-saw to get it off.
The tube had a bend at the end of it that had to be removed, so I used a hack-saw to get it off.
After having cut another piece of the white tube to be fitted onto the black part, I glued the scope body and the black part together.
Some bondo was applied around the edges where the scope body and the black part were glued together.
The edges were sanded smooth for aesthetic reasons.
The front of the original scope had a thick part with a small lens sticking out of it attached to the scope body, but instead of making a thick part like this, I taped around the front tube to make a steady line where I used a hack-saw to grind in a small line to make it look as if my scope also has that thick part screwed onto the scope body.
The back of the original scope had a large piece that was screwed onto it to hold the back lens in place or something else that I don't know about.
This was made from a strip of thin sheet metal that was bent around the back of the scope and soldered together.
This was made from a strip of thin sheet metal that was bent around the back of the scope and soldered together.
For the front lens, I made some sort of supporting structure for the inside of the front tube, holding the lens in place and making it all stronger.
I used a piece of something in between wood and cardboard to make two coin shaped parts.
I shall call it cardwood.
I used a piece of something in between wood and cardboard to make two coin shaped parts.
I shall call it cardwood.
After having cut the thing I now call cardwood into two coin shaped parts, I glued them on top of each other and marked a circle around the lens onto the coin parts.
Using the grinding machine, I made the hole for the lens.
To cover the cardwood parts, I made a lid out of thin aluminum to go over them, having the lens going through the aluminum plate.
After the lid was cut out, the hole for the lens was made.
Three holes were drilled into the front of the scope for the screws that are supposed to be there.
These will even have a usage as they will hold the cardwood parts and the aluminum lid together, rather than just being there for show because the original scope had them.
These will even have a usage as they will hold the cardwood parts and the aluminum lid together, rather than just being there for show because the original scope had them.
The screws were screwed into the cardwood parts that were also glued onto the inside of the scope front.
A few smaller holes were drilled for some smaller details.
Two small screws were added to the lens holder at the back of the scope, and two small button-head pins were also added to the middle slot.
For the mounting brackets of the scope, I used a small square rod that I cut into two smaller pieces.
The longest part to the left was used for the back of the scope and the shorter one to the right was then probably used for the front of the scope.
The original mounting bracket for the front was curved from the middle of the part towards the scope body, so I made these curves by using a grinding bit.
Here you can see the curved part for the front and the other part for the back of the scope.
To make the parts sit on better underneath the scope without breaking off, I drilled three holes through them for a series of 3 millimeter thick screws that will have 6 millimeter thick screws in between them, going through the scope, making it all stronger.
The 6 millimeter thick screws in the middle will be the removable screws for the mounting of the scope.
The 6 millimeter thick screws in the middle will be the removable screws for the mounting of the scope.
Not the most aligned series of pilot holes were made, but it won't matter since it will all be hidden by bondo anyway.
The pilot holes were made bigger for the screws, but were drilled slightly narrower than the screws so that it would be possible to make threads through the parts.
To make the threads through the parts for the screws, I used tools that are meant to make threads, and this is what they look like.
