The creation of the helmet
Page 03
Page 03
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After having glued all the parts together and covered them with bondo to make them all into one solid part, the circuit board looked very cool inside the opening of the top cover.
After having cut a small strip of circuit board for the inside of the left ear piece, it was glued onto the base along with some other small parts.
Putting the rest of the parts on top of the base made it look somewhat empty, so I decided to glue some small circuit boards and parts to the inside of it to make it look cooler.
Here is a view of the top of the base once the base was glued together.
A plate was also added to the inside of the base to hold the two parts together.
After having bent the part to the right shape, the top of the base worked out very well, and the slots will be filled with bondo.
To make the thick curved top of the base, I cut many slots into the aluminum where the metal will be bent downwards.
The base had to be made out of two separate parts also.
To make the thick base of the left ear piece, some modifications were done to the template of it.
The angled lower part was bent to the right shape and glued onto the top cover.
The angled lower part of the left ear piece was also made of thin aluminum.
After the parts were cut out, two small sheets were glued onto the inside of them to hold them together.
Since the larger aluminum sheet had been used up, I had to make the top cover of the left ear piece out of two sheets of aluminum instead.
Since I had started working with bondo already, I attached all the parts of the ear cap together with bondo and covered the edges of it with bondo as well.
After the guiding track base and the outer base of the ear cap were glued together, a third hole was made through both parts that was also threaded.
The inner base was traced around onto the helmet to make sure I would get it in the right place later on when I attach it to the helmet with bondo.
A small track was machined along the length of the stalk for the wires of the LED's electronics.
To make the body of the range finder, I had to draw my own template after some measurements found on the Internet.
To make the range finder body in one piece, I had to use a larger sheet of aluminum that originally had polystyrene on it.
Before bending the back part of the range finder body to the right position, I had to screw on the stalk, otherwise I would need a very small screwdriver.
The electronics for the LED's fit right inside the body of the range finder, only it was too long at the front, so I had to grind away one of the circuits and replace it with a blue jumper wire seen in the middle.
On some range finders, the LED's are located a small distance behind the holes in the range finder body, but I wanted to have mine sticking out a bit, so I drilled the holes slightly smaller than the body width of the LED's.
After drilling the holes through the back of the range finder body where the stalk will be mounted, I made a small opening for the wires of the electronics.
The stalk mounting holes were made a little bigger than the width of the screws to make it possible to adjust the body of the range finder to sit more horizontally once folded down.
To make the inner part of the range finder, I had to make my own template for this also.
Once a 9 Volt battery was connected and the range finder was folded down to turn on the rotation switch, the LED's powered up in a blinking pattern, so the electronics worked well for its purpose.
The power plug fit right onto the two pins of the circuit board.
A 9 Volt battery holder was soldered onto the circuit board with stretch relieving.
A 9 Volt battery holder was soldered onto the circuit board with stretch relieving.
Using a part from an old hard-drive to hold two small pins in place, I soldered them onto the circuit board.
The circuit board for the rotation switch was made from a small piece of experimental board after having drawn a small sketch of the circuitry.
The edges of the range finder body and the stalk were covered in bondo to cover up all the cracks.
The text saying power looked really cool for the range finder once I got the plug onto it.
These plugs can be found inside older computers at your local dump or office late at night.
These plugs can be found inside older computers at your local dump or office late at night.
Instead of soldering the wires permanently onto the circuit board for the rotation switch, I made a small power plug with two small molex pins inside.
The electronics were glued onto the inside of the range finder body with hot glue, and the wires were glued into the track of the stalk with super-glue.
After the range finder body was properly adjusted, the back of it was bent to the right position.
A small fake screen was made for the inside of the screen holder to make it look more functional and realistic.
After the hole was made, the edges of the part were filed round to make it look more authentic.
Bending the part into shape before grinding open the hole in the middle prevents it from getting distorted as it could have become if I had made the hole before bending the part to the right shape.
The screen holder was made of the same thin aluminum sheet as the range finder body.
A custom template was also drawn for the small screen holder of the range finder.
After the bondo had hardened, the masking tape was removed, and the part had a couple more sides to it.
The bondo was then applied to the inside of the part, covering mostly just the sides.
To make the sides of the part, I covered the open sides with masking tape to fill the part with bondo.
The angle was made by using a grinding bit on a Dremel tool.
The extra width that was made on the part was made so that I could grind the side to the correct angle after the part had been bent to the right shape.
Even the small circuit board of the rotation switch was attached with bondo.
The lower right ear piece and the inner base of the ear cap were also attached to the helmet using bondo.
The screen holder was mounted onto the inner part of the range finder with bondo, and the screen was covered with masking tape.
Both squares were glued inside the screen holder, and the CD effect looked really cool.
To make a cool effect behind the screen, I cut a small square out of a CD that will reflect the light in many various colors.
After having carved a few patterns and lines into the screen, I panted them all red.
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